From Winter to Spring in Buenos Aires

Imagine a 50 year-old taxi driver in a beat-up but recently washed taxi. He has pulled over to the side of the road, or maybe is still in his own driveway, and has nodded off under the dark gray sky, a hallmark of a Buenos Aires winter. He has abandoned his thermos and mate, little green yerba leaves and luke warm water have spilled onto the empty passengers seat. His body is curled over with arms folded to protect him from the freezing air. His head rests against the cold window and condensation accumulates as he breathes gently out his mouth that is decorated with a rusty 5 o’clock shadow and some drool. He only wakes up to cough, and then curses at the disturbance.

All of the sudden a ray of sunlight pierces through the window and the taxi driver bats open his tired eyes. Without a moment of hesitation, like a bear awakening from his hibernation, he squints, smiles and unfolds into a beautiful full-body stretch. He revs the engine, dusts off the dashboard, and begins the first day of the rest of his life with a renewed energy and refined sense of hope.

This is how spring arrives in Buenos Aires.
The Buenos Aires winter may not be as frigid as the same season in many other countries, but the way the Porteños (citizens of the port city) complain, one would think they were in the artic circle. The “queja”, or the complaint, is also a Buenos Aires hallmark. Even they themselves admit it, and are not sure why they complain as a way of life. Luckily for them, and foreign visitors, the queja is relatively transparent, with common phrases such as, “it’s the Armageddon” and “it feels colder because there’s 100% humidity!” the queja does not seem sour daily interactions. In winter, the queja is extreme, while the weather might not be – which also introduces the queja’s best friend, exaggeration.

While Porteños are busy hibernating and planning for the Armageddon, deep inside they hold a shiny yet beat-up hope for the fateful day when, although it may still be cold, they can shake off the bitterness of winter and celebrate the holiday (and promise) of Spring. Yes, Argentineans celebrate the Day of Spring (sans gofer) on the second Sunday of the month of August. Coincidentally, Spring Day is also Child’s Day, El Dia del Niño. On this day, the responsibility falls more on the godparent’s shoulders and gifts are expected, if not demanded. Note: To increase the national spending, a popular tactic in Argentina is to promote obscure holidays and encourage las compras.

Fortunately, by Argentinean law, (one that is actually abided by) all employees must earn 13 months of salary a year, and the extra month of cash is given in to parts, one half at the end of July and the other in January. For many people, this bonus is a sign of Spring, and our friendly taxi driver, with his new lease on life, is no exception. He jumps into his car and goes to buy his godson a new soccer ball and for his goddaughter, a relatively expensive (because it’s imported) Barbie. Money is no cause for the queja, the sun has come out, he has his bi-annual bonus and his wife is preparing a delicious celebratory meal for the entire family. It’s spring, things are good.

For the college-aged crowd, whose age range is much wider than that of most other places, 20 – 35 years, Spring is represented by a huge sigh of relief: Final exams are over. In Argentina, there is a cruel University system, that, apart from encouraging college careers that commonly stretch for over 10 years (for a bachelors degree), plants an entire month of studying and exams in the absolute coldest and most sweltering months of the year; December/ January and July/August. Old buddies Queja and Exaggeration get together and make passing an exam the most impossible feat known to mankind and the weather becomes worthy of a panic attack. The University exams have a surprisingly depressing effect on the general society and of course increasing the queja. There are a few factors that could cause this phenomenon. Maybe it’s because the majority of the citizens can and do attend excellent free Universities, or because the student population is so large due to the fact that the average student graduates is 7 or 8 years, not 4, for a basic degree. (Some people would take this as a sign and imagine that Argentineans just don’t want to grow up. I think that’s probably true, on a subconscious level, but that’s also what makes Buenos Aires city and it’s inhabitants so youthful and uncompromising.)

One key social group that cannot go without mention during the “holiday” season is the wealthy upper-class. While the rest of Argentina basically resents them, the rich families are important because they show us foreigners how to celebrate Spring Day in style. The high class welcomes Spring by lowering the central heating in their mansion, pulling out their fancy cars and moving their tennis matches to outdoor courts. This might not sound very exciting – why should it be? These families just got back from wonderful ski vacations surrounded by some of the Earth’s most beautiful landscapes.

Having the luxury to escape the gray winter in the city is one that very few citizens have. Those that do, however, have that luxury will travel to Bariloche or Mendoza to go skiing and relax in indoor pools and in-suite Jacuzzis.

For the children of these families, Spring Day is Children’s Day and presents shall be received. Bikes, cell phones, trips to see the Backyardigans on Ice and new designer clothes are revealed to exaggerated and dissipating gratitude and everyone goes back to their bedroom and watches TV.

As different as social classes and age groups might be in their daily regimen, they all celebrate and welcome Spring with a energetic sense of progress and gratitude. For the taxi driver, the med student and the desperate housewife Spring has arrived, the queja takes a temporary pause, and this fantastic city is alive again after an absolutely freezing, painful, bone-chilling and exaggerated winter.