Thursday, July 30, 2009

BA City Orientation!

Read more! Attention everyone coming to Buenos Aires! Hit the ground running with a City Orientation! Learn about transportation, food, timing, people, customs, history, shopping, going out - all in a few hours! No matter how many guide books you've read- nothing can prepare you for the reality of Buenos Aires. In 2-3 fun hours you'll feel like a pro and ready to get your life started with ease. The first day in a new city is scary and lonely- the City Orientation automatically brightens up those first day woes as we explore the city together. All your questions and doubts will be answered and you'll have a trusted contact for the rest of your time in Buenos Aires. Contact me at Madi@baculturalconcierge.com and we can Skype to talk about options and scheduling. Do yourself a favor, become independent in BA and hit the ground running! Read more!

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Non- Steak Food in BA

Read more! Let’s be honest; there are only so many steaks one can eat in a week. Even the local Porteños put away their sharp knives from time to time to dig into other local specialty foods. While these culinary delights might not be world famous, they strongly represent Buenos Aires and deserve some of the spotlight. So, move over bife de lomo...here come the under-dogs...

Top 3 Non-Steak BA Delicacies

1. Life is like a box of empanadas, you never know what you’re gonna get.

Empanadas are essentially homemade Hot Pockets or turnovers and have two basic parts: filling and dough. Empanada fillings are traditionally savory and come piping hot. When buying or ordering empanadas you will have a long list of fillings to choose from:

Spanish English
Jamón y queso Ham and cheese
Carne (suave o picante) Ground beef (regular or spicy)
Carne cortado al cuchillo Meat cut in chunks
Pollo Chicken
Queso y cebolla Cheese and onion
Roqueforte Roquefort cheese
Jamón y ananá Ham and pineapple
Humita Creamed corn
Caprese Cheese, tomato and basil

Ojo! Any of these warm hand held delights may come with the following: hard-boiled egg (huevo duro), green olives (aceitunas) or raisins (pasas de uva). These are traditional ingredients and they compliment the flavors nicely.

Rule: Never ask for a specially made empanada unless you are offered the option. It’s like asking the McDonalds cashier to make sure they only put mayonnaise on the left half of the top bun.

Tip: When looking forward to a night in watching a movie or relaxing in the hotel, order a box of empanadas with a few of each (un poco de todo) and have fun guessing which is which.

2. Heavy on the cheese, light on the sauce.

Pizza is one of the most popular foods in Buenos Aires and often accompanies empanadas on the back of the delivery boys’ motorbike. It is rare to find a restaurant that sells only one or the other. Empanadas and pizza are partners in crime and have a lot in common. BA pizzas have lots of cheese, very little tomato sauce and almost always come with whole green olives on top.

In general, toppings are the same as anywhere else, however there are 2 specialties that any BA visitor must try.

Fugazetta: Mountains of onions atop of a thick pizza crust (bad date food)
Fainá: Flat crust-like dough made out of crushed garbanzo beans and oil (traditionally eaten together with a piece of pizza stacked on top)

3. Schnitzel from Milan?

Milanesas are a staple in the Argentine diet and are made by cutting thin slices of chicken or meat, pounding them with bread crumbs and frying them in a pan of boiling oil. Often accompanied by mashed potatoes or fries, these crispy cutlets can come as big as your head, meaning they are a full meal.

Those looking for a healthier or vegetarian option can enjoy soy milanesas. Argentina is one of the worlds biggest soy producers and so far the Argentines have only incorporated it into a very few foods. Luckily, the big wigs in Chinatown got word of this countrywide fact and have begun fun tofu campaigns to help educate the masses.

Milanesas can be found on the menu of most cafés and restaurants and are generally offered “a la Napolitana,” with ham and cheese melted on top or as the main event in a sandwich.

What are YOUR favorite BA non-parilla foods?
Read more!

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

The Glory of Winter in Buenos Aires

Read more! It’s all sun and fun until May rolls around, right? There are less and less of those long sunny “hot-child-in-the-city” days and the girls trade in their mini-skirts for tapered jeans. The locals get back to work and the tourists run for warmer pastures. Well, don’t run so fast dear travelers- Buenos Aires has much to offer during those chilly winter months.

So maybe you believe that winter is not the best season for a first-time short visit to Buenos Aires, but for ex-pats, back-packers and those on “sabbatical” it can be quite charming; warm snacks meet off-season prices to create a delicious equation for anyone with enough courage to stay or insufficient funds to travel elsewhere.
Vocabulary

Facturas: pastries
Vaca: cow
Merienda: afternoon snack
Olla: bowl
“Buen Provecho!”: Bon Apetit

Here is a list of local treats that are invariably better when it’s cold out:


1. Coffee!

Having coffee in Buenos Aires is a long-standing tradition that is popular among all generations. While some travelers are more beer oriented, sitting down in one of BA’s million coffee houses is a much better way to experience the local lifestyle. Order a café con leche y dos medialunas, read a book (preferably one by Borges or Cortázar) and people-watch the day away.

Slip into “La Puerto Rico” café at Adolfo Alsina 416 (Downtown) on a cold winter day and take a seat in their warm dining room. This is a historical location in Downtown's Monserrat neighborhood where the original revolutionaries met to discuss the country’s future during colonial times. The café is located by the infamous Colégio Nacional de Buenos Aires and was frequented by passionate students studying and debating politics.

TIP: Keep an eye out for people walking down the street with push-carts full of stainless steel thermoses. These saints are selling coffee (and usually facturas) for about $2 pesos or $0.50 cents. You can ask for you coffee exactly how you like it- and in my opinion, it’s the best cup around.

2. Shopping!

Who comes to buy leather in the summer? If you’re like me, you don’t think getting stuck in a pair of sweaty leather pants or arm-coverings on a hot summer day sounds like fun. Winter is the ideal season to buy leather in Buenos Aires- the prices go down due to fewer tourists (less demand) and nothing keeps your warm like a jacket made from a delicious Argentine vaca.

There are multiple trustworthy leather stores in Palermo (Villa Crespo) on Calle Murillo by the Malabia subte station. Las Pepas is a high-end girly leather shop that also has excellent quality in clothes and accessories. For a less trendy spot, visit the Feria de Mataderos where local and provincial artisans sell leather goods and other regional arts and crafts.

3. Chocolate con churros!

What’s better than a cafe on a chilly winter day? A traditional merienda option known as chocolate con churros. Pronounced, cha-co-la-tay, this hot chocolate is best taken with two or three (or 10) crunchy golden brown dulce-de-leche-filled tubes of pastry goodness pronounced “choo-RRos.” Practice the rolling R and then you will have earned this high calorie snack.

The best place for this warm treat is Confiteria Ideal on Suipacha 380 downtown. This beautiful old tearoom dates back to 1912 and takes you back in time with antique (original) stained glass, marble staircases and waiters in formalwear. Check out the schedule on their website to find out about their tango shows, classes and live music events.


4. Very cool festivals!

Four super important, educational and exciting festivals take place during winter in Buenos Aires: ArteBa, the International Human Rights Film Festival, Ciudad Emergente and the Festival Buenos Aires Tango and Mundial de Tango.

ArteBa 2009 takes place in late May at La Rural. La Sociedad Rural Argentina, or La Rural for short, is both a society and an exhibition center. The society was founded in 1866 under the motto, ‘To cultivate the soil is to serve the country.’ The original members were wealthy landowners who started the tradition of holding agricultural exhibitions in La Rural’s belle époque stadium.

This year will be ArteBa’s 18th annual contemporary art fair and is a great way to spend time indoors learning about Argentina’s hot art scene. Check out this video for a sneak peek, http://www.arteba.org/in/01-feria.htm.

The 10th annual Festival Internacional de Cine de Derechos Humanos, is a very important film festival focused on human rights. Taking place in June at the Centro Cultural Recoleta, this event aims to show social realities that allow for personal reflection on human rights issues.

Ciudad Emergente is a high-energy music festival, ideal for lovers of rock, indie pop and local beats. It may be cold in June, but there’s no better place to warm up during a wild week of concerts.

The best Tango shows of the year take place during this festival which in 2009 falls between the 14th and 31st of August. During the BA Tango Festival, followed by the World Tango Championship, visitors can take part in various classes, shows, fairs and finally an open-air milonga as a closing ceremony.

5. Guiso, locro, puchero! Oh my!

First, lets set the scene; the weather outside is frightful but inside you, your housemates and friends have congregated around a large witches brew. Looking inside the giant olla you spot veggies, meat, pork, beans, rice and pretty much anything that hadn’t already spoiled in the fridge. Guiso, locro and puchero are all names of traditional Argentine stews. Each differs slightly, for example guiso often has rice and lentils while locro generally has beans, which are not common in the Argentine diet. These delicious dishes are steaming hot and unimaginable during sweltering summer months. Dig in with a fresh baguette, have a glass of malbec on the side and don’t forget your manners, “Buen Provecho!”
Read more!

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Health Insurance and Hospitals in Buenos Aires

Read more! Staying healthy and safe while in another country is paramount. The moral of the following story is 2-fold: Educate yourself on what to do in case of illness while in Buenos Aires and while you’re at it get some cheap local health insurance called obra social. These plans have a monthly fee and generally allow you to visit any type of doctor and buy prescription medicine at little or no cost. Note, don’t just try to find the cheapest obra social as the prices fluctuate to bring in new clients and can increase without notice. Vocabulary Tips

Madrugada: (n) The very dark hours before sunrise (amanecer).
Obra social: (n) Health insurance plan (also, Plan de Salud).
Cartilla: (n) Directory of doctors and offices of attention in each neighborhood.

It was around 4 o’clock in the madrugada on a warm night last fall when it hit me that emergencies happen when your parents aren’t around to help, also known as “Oh no, I’m an adult.” My best friend, who had been madrugando with friends on the terrace crept into my room and began to search through the piles of clothes on the floor. This would have been a normal event however I heard moaning noises and squinted (without my glasses on) to see that she was bent over clutching her stomach.

“Jana, que te pasa?” I said, asking what was going on.
She responded, “Nada, nada me voy al hospital pero vos te quedás acá.” Nothing, nothing, I’m going to the hospital but you stay here.

Never one to complain or even acknowledge pain, I knew she was in bad shape and insisted on going with her. I remembered she had been feeling a pain in her abdomen but finding a doctor was difficult because she didn’t have local health insurance and one visit would cost $100 pesos.

Fervently refusing to call a taxi, I supported her as she limped to the nearest hospital, which luckily happened to be just 3 blocks away.

Just as the sun was breaking through the sky we entered the neighborhood municipal hospital that (from the outside) looked like a grand train station. What happened once we cleared “security” was more than a little disenchanting. The halls looked like those of a middle school; there were no seats anywhere and many little rooms that looked like cells in a detention center. We found the reception area and although my friend was crying in pain the nurse simply gave us confusing directions of where to go and pay. After we paid the $20 pesos fee we had to walk to another wing of the hospital and wait. It would have been nice had they offered a wheelchair considering at this point my friend was practically crawling on the floor. We found the waiting room we were destined for after 15 minutes of searching and crawling and gave the information we had filled out to the angry woman at the desk. She would call Jana’s name when the doctor could see her.

We waited 2 hours as the waiting room filled and emptied with sick people. Even though I had asked many times what the deal was, the receptionist ignored us. Finally when I explained to her that we had been waiting 2 hours, she said “oops” and let us see the doctor.

The rest of the visit continued in this manner, the doctor telling my friend she didn’t know what was wrong but that she’d need surgery and couldn’t leave the country for months. Jana was due to go home to Germany in 2 weeks. Having never had surgery before and only being 19, Jana was panicked. We asked for the doctor to stop talking and just tell us the best private hospital to go to.

The Hospital Alemán was a mere 20-minute taxi ride to Barrio Norte. The two best hospitals, Hospital Alemán (German) and Swiss Medical Center are in the north of the city, and a world apart. As soon as we entered the Hospital Alemán my friend was whisked away by nurses and doctors. Instead of having to roam the hospital looking for where to pay and were to sign papers, she was given an emergency room bed, the papers were brought to her and I was told how to manage the payment for her. Although she ended up not needing surgery, she had pancreatitis and had to stay in the hospital for a week. Just having had “Libertad” tattooed below her belly button, Jana was distraught but they allowed me to stay overnight for just $100 pesos. The attention was spectacular, slow as usual, but they found German-speaking doctors to come and explain that process and helped Jana contact her parents, the airline and her German insurance company. She ended up not needing surgery and survived by flirting with the construction men that we could spot through the wide windows in her private room.

The moral of this story is 2-fold: Educate yourself on what to do in case of illness while in Buenos Aires and while you’re at it get some cheap local health insurance called obra social. These plans have a monthly fee and generally allow you to visit any type of doctor and buy prescription medicine at little or no cost. Note, don’t just try to find the cheapest obra social as the prices fluctuate to bring in new clients and can increase without notice.

Buenos Aires has excellent doctors that are only a taxi ride away. Always keep a copy of your passport or ID on you and be aware of where the nearest private hospital is. As noted before, the two best “First World” hospitals are the Hospital Alemán and Swiss Medical Group. These hospitals also happen to have the best health insurance programs and patient care.

Hospital Alemán is located in Barrio Norte at Pueyrredón 1640, just a few blocks from the Pueyrredón subway station. For over 140 years, this hospital has been treating locals and foreigners with a team of internationally trained doctors. Their facilities look like those in the US or Europe and the staff makes you feel safe. Most doctors speak English and many speak other languages including Portuguese, German, Italian and French. The facilities are clean and the nurses are careful and gentle. The food is not half-bad and they allow one guest to stay overnight and have various visiting hours. In grand Buenos Aires style there is even a beautiful courtyard in the middle of the building to take a stroll with intravenous tubes sticking out of your arm.

Swiss Medical Center is the chosen hospital of the elite in Buenos Aires and like the Hospital Alemán, has excellent facilities that will remind you of those in the US or Europe. There are centers in Barrio Norte, on the border of Palermo, at Av. Pueyrredón 1441; this hospital is across the street from the Scalabrini Ortiz subway station. There is also a center downtown at Av. 25 de Mayo. Considering that the Swiss and Alemán are both large hospitals, there are occasions when patients will have to walk a few blocks to see specialists but in cases of emergency no walking will need to be done and patients will be attended to on the spot.


In terms of health insurance, cough up the extra $300 pesos a month and go to the dentist, gynecologist and general practitioner for freeYou will receive a bill in the mail once a month that can be paid by credit card, bank transfer or at Rapi Pago or Pago Facil which are bill paying programs found at kiosks and chain grocery stores such as Disco and Carrefour. Each hospital has many plans that differ in cost and services. There are many locations in the city where you can go to meet with someone who will explain each plan and help you decide which to choose. These locations are called surcursales and can be found on the hospital’s website. With these programs you will receive a cartilla from which you can contact them yourself to arrange appointments. Most visits are free and unlimited with the exception of specialty doctors such as therapists and psychiatrists, which come with small co-pay. Ladies take note that you can get birth control for about $15 pesos Argentinos a month, about $4.50 USD.

Hospital Alemán’s health insurance program, or obra social, currently costs between $235 - $343 pesos Argentinos. Swiss Medical’s health insurance program currently costs between $200 - $260 pesos Argentinos. Both organizations offer various prices and packages depending on age (the previous costs are for a 24-year old) and include:

- Complete cartilla in hard copy and online to find doctors and offices of attention
- 40% discount on prescription medications at various pharmacies
- House calls by doctors for a small additional fee
- Free medical studies, consultations, dentistry and orthodontics
- Small co-pay to see a therapist
- 24-hour emergency hotline and ambulance service


Other reliable hospitals with obra sociales include Hospital Italiano located in Almagro by the Medrano subway station and Hospital Britanico located downtown by Avenida Santa Fe and 9 de Julio.


Read more!

A view on Swine Flu from the ground in Buenos Aires

Read more! Here in Buenos Aires, everyone loves a scare and hard facts are often smothered by exaggerations and unfounded ‘truths’. Thus, the perfect breeding ground for a swine flu extravaganza. From over-protective mothers (put lightly) to doctors who say that smoking 5 cigarettes a day is OK, its pretty difficult to find answers to medical situations without some sort of bias. Here is a basic summary of the swine flu situation in Buenos Aires. You won’t read any groundbreaking information but you can get an idea of how daily life is being effected, how locals feel and a few helpful tips. Swine Flu = Gripe Porcina

July 2, 2009 Cancun Mexico
Opening welcome in speech by Dr Margaret Chan
Director-General of the World Health Organization

Recommendations to avoid travel to Mexico, or to any other country or area with confirmed cases, serve no purpose.

They do not protect the public. They do not contain the outbreak. And they do not prevent further international spread.

....But we need to watch very carefully what happens during the current winter season in the Southern Hemisphere... We are still seeing a largely reassuring clinical picture. The overwhelming majority of patients experience mild symptoms and make a full recovery within a week, often in the absence of any form of medical treatment.

Between the extremes of panic and complacency lies the solid ground of vigilance.

http://www.who.int/dg/speeches/2009/influenza_h1n1_lessons_20090702/en/index.html

Daily life:

Since last Friday, June 26th, the streets of BA have seen lighter traffic and the cabbies are getting anxious. In the subways and buses some people cover their mouths with their scarf but generally people are behaving as normal. Some people are hesitant or will simply refuse to greet with the traditional kiss on the cheek. Little grandmas are worried as they are about everyone, home-visit doctors are tired and hospitals are rumored to have become a place to get sick- not better.

Schools are closed, business are encouraging employees to work from home or come to work by car and women with children under the age of 14 are excused from work for the next 15 days.

The result? People are staying in a lot more, spending time with their families, cuddling up with their TVs and watching 24-hour news flashes on swine flu. Not exactly an escape! Right now swine flu sells and its important to keep this in mind when feeling overwhelmed by news reports and NY Times articles.

As of today Sunday July 5, 2009 the only institutions that are closed are schools. Restaurants, movie theaters and night clubs are open.

Local opinion:

Lets play a game called its the Government’s Fault. I’ll be every possible problem in Buenos Aires and you be the government. This is how it goes: I do whatever I want and its always your fault.

While blaming the government sounds like a lot of fun, its pointless. It’s a common local tactic to take responsibility of the shoulders of the general community and throw it at a machine that is 1) out of the peoples’ control and 2) out of control.

However futile, everyone’s playing this game. The locals are busy debating whether or not Christina Kirchner and the former Health Minister handled the situation in a manner based on what would be best for the people. Big elections took place last Sunday June 28, the President’s husband, former Argentine president Nestor Kirchner lost in the congressional race and the current governor Mauricio Macri and his party won the majority. A new Health Minster came in and has since proceeded full steam ahead with swine flu hysteria. It’s not clear what exactly he is doing besides closing schools (a good idea), freaking out the residents (not a good idea) and punching tourism in the face (bleep). It’s also not clear why he hasn’t spent time finding or importing hand sanitizer and medicines that are rumored to be out of stock in the entire country.

Tips:

Brought to you by the World Health Organization
Updated 11 June 2009
What can I do to protect myself from catching influenza A(H1N1)?

The main route of transmission of the new influenza A(H1N1) virus seems to be similar to seasonal influenza, via droplets that are expelled by speaking, sneezing or coughing. You can prevent getting infected by avoiding close contact with people who show influenza-like symptoms (trying to maintain a distance of about 1 metre if possible) and taking the following measures:

* avoid touching your mouth and nose;
* clean hands thoroughly with soap and water, or cleanse them with an alcohol-based hand rub on a regular basis (especially if touching the mouth and nose, or surfaces that are potentially contaminated);
* avoid close contact with people who might be ill;
* reduce the time spent in crowded settings if possible;
* improve airflow in your living space by opening windows;
* practise good health habits including adequate sleep, eating nutritious food, and keeping physically active.

http://www.who.int/csr/disease/swineflu/frequently_asked_questions/what/en/index.html

Bottom line:

It’s flu and cold season. Take is easy.

Is it safe to travel?

The World Health Organization says YES if you are healthy and NO if you are ill.

Read more!